Club Night – Wednesday 21st August 2024

We had a slightly unusual demo this evening, with Chairman Roger Gilbert and club member Gerald Hubbard both tasked with producing a natural-edged tazza from two similar pieces of yew.

The yew was still fairly moist so it turned nicely but that also meant that there was a risk of splitting from the pith – and some cracks were already visible. More of that below!

Roger

Roger volunteered to go first and initially mounted the blank between a friction pad in the chuck and a live centre, but this slipped a bit, so he quickly switched to using a steb drive in the chuck.

 

He started by reducing the area in way of the stem and foot with a spindle roughing gouge, then added a chucking tenon and mounted the wood in the chuck.

 

Using a continental spindle gouge and with the tailstock brought up for support he further reduced the stem area and then started dishing the tazza.

 

Carrying on, Roger continued the hollowing, and also worked the back (underside) of the tazza, lessening the wall thickness. Whilst thinning the stem down, he was particularly careful as a crack was propagating from the pith as he removed material.

 

Once he’d gone as far as he dared, Roger did a few finishing cuts on the foot to form a nice ogee shape. Next was to pull back the tailstock and remove the stub in the centre of the tazza before sanding through the grits overall, applying sanding sealer and wax and parting off.

The final operation was to mount a sanding arbor in the chuck and clean up the underside of the foot.

Overall, a nice little tazza and I think the picture shows the extent of the cracks that Roger had to contend with!

Gerald

Like Roger, Gerald started with the blank between centres (steb drive + live ring centre) but pointed out that he likes to use a bowl gouge for much of the time, due to its greater strength and less chattering when working with a larger overhang.

 

He reduced the area in way of the stem and foot and did an initial scooping out of the bowl before adding a chucking tenon and mounting the wood in the chuck.

 

Working gradually, Gerald worked on the underside and continued some hollowing, interspersed with reducing the stem diameter. Aiming for a nice thin bowl, he noted that the wood was moving as stresses were relieved.

He finished off carefully with some light shear cuts.

Sanding the bowl, Gerald reduced the lathe speed to avoid heat checking (there are enough cracks already!) and supported it with one hand.

 

Once this was done, he moved back to the stem and carefully continued refining its shape and reducing its diameter especially towards the lower end.

Disaster! A chunk came off the stem from one of the cracks leaving him with a “design opportunity” as he put it.

With fewer options now, he recovered well, and narrowed the stem down to remove the area of damage, but kept the shape simple.

This held everything together and he was able to safely sand overall and then improve the shape of the foot before applying sanding sealer and giving it a very light rub over with a grey “scouring pad”.

 

The final operation was to part it off.

This was a particularly interesting evening as two very good turners dealt with the same challenge in slightly different ways but also had to deal with the vagaries of the particular piece of wood that they were given.

Club Night – 7th August 2024

This evening, Ian Ethell gave us a demonstration of how to make a little elephant – of which, his house has many variants apparently!

Ian brought along some examples of his work for us to see.

He also handed out very useful dimensioned drawings showing that the elephant was made up of a number of pieces: head and trunk, ears, body, tail, and legs.

As he’ll be mounting a number of smaller pieces between centres, he mostly used a light pull drive in the chuck. The wood used was sycamore and, for much of the time, he used a 3/8” bowl gouge with a 40-40 grind as promoted by Stuart Batty.

Body

Starting with the body, he showed us that the blank was pre-drilled and oblong rather than square in order to get a flat underside for the legs.

Mounted between centres, Ian quickly formed the initial shape by making a long cove at one end and then rounding the corners off the body before turning the body until the underside flat was the desired width.

He next refined the overall shape and took the neck down to the required diameter, blending it into the cove. At this point Ian made a comment that, with the 40-40 grind, it was important not to put too much pressure on the bevel of the gouge. The body was finished off with minor adjustments of dimensions and an overall sanding.

Head

First, a 6mm hole was drilled in the end, and deepened using a 3mm drill in order to suit the light pull drive. With the blank between centres, Ian brought it to round and started forming the trunk with a long cove before shaping the head and trunk and blending them together.

Once sanded, he marked both sides of the head on the centre line for the ear positions and used a forstner bit to drill at an angle to suit the tenons that will be on the ears.

A final sanding, then parted off with a skew.

Ears

These are essentially cupped round discs with tenons turned on the lathe from a blank that had been previously cut to shape with a saw.

With the blank in the chuck, it was turned to the required diameter and the end cupped, then a tenon put on the back of the ear. This procedure ensures that the wood has support behind it whilst hollowing out.

The back of the ear was then curved down to the tenon, sanded (with care to protect fingers!) and parted off.

Tail

A length of small square blank was brought to round and shaped with the bowl gouge, using a shear cut for a good finish beforesanding and parting off.

Legs

The two rear legs are turned on centre but the two front ones are turned slightly offset in order to point them forwards. He used a home-made three-pin marker for marking out the offsets.

Ian turned the blank to diameter then marked out the legs and tenons along its length before forming the tenons with a parting tool.

The individual legs are made with a slight taper towards the foot, and the foot chamfered slightly. There is also a small undercut at the tenon/shoulder join in order to ensure a snug fit when inserted into the elephant’s body. Each leg was sanded in turn before parting off, and a chamfer applied to the end of the tenon for easy insertion.

Assembly

Ian sanded (50mm sanding disc in chuck) small flats on the head for the ears to sit against and dry assembled the elephant, although there was no time to add decoration. The picture below shows a completed elephant, with “features” added.

 

The competition table had a good selection of entries this month.

 

1st place went to Roger Gilbert for a clock inlaid with the ends of shotgun cartridges, and an elegant stand for the clock.

 

2nd place was for a primus stove by Dave Simms.

 

Joint 3rd places were for a yo-yo by Jerry Coles

and a pair of bud vases by Viv Harvey.